Blizzards and 80 knot winds have kept us inside "Gadget Hut" for 7 days. In the middle of the blizzards we had a heat wave. The temperature got up to one degree above zero Celsius. We had three days of this warm weather and we were worried about our meat defrosting. The wind was very strong and from the east instead of the south by south-east which is the usual direction. Yesterday the sun came out and we went over to the frozen lake where we collect water. The ice on top of the lake is now about 70 centimetres thick. We managed to get three drums of water. I think it won't be long before we are going to start melting ice on the stove to get water. I haven't taken a bath for fourteen days. I told Margie that I'm conserving water. She didn't let me get away with that excuse and now I've taken a bath. She thinks she is a lot cleaner, it was only nine days since her last bath. Our average water consumption so far is approximately six litres a day.
OUR MOULTING FRIENDS, THE ADELIE PENGUINS
Yesterday we spent some time sitting with the group of penguins
right next to the hut. They aren't afraid of us and don't mind us
being here at all. We think they are getting used to us because
they have been watching us for so long. We sat about 30 centimetres
from them and they seemed to be talking to us. The blizzard must
have been rough on them, penguins rely on their curved feathers and
down to protect them from the cold. They look very scruffy. All
their feathers are falling out. We felt sorry for them. Their
flippers were frozen to the sides of their bodies and they were all
caked in ice. The few remaining feathers were full of snow and ice.
There were two penguins in the group of sixteen that had half their
faces frozen solid with ice. They couldn't even see out. Another
one had his beak frozen closed. We watched him and it took him
about half a day to get his mouth open. When this group of penguins
arrived about ten days ago they were all nice and shiny with all
their feathers. They had big fat tummies full of food. Then their
feathers started falling out like crazy. We haven't seen them eat
since they began moulting. Penguins also rely on a layer of fat to
keep them warm. These penguins have lost their fat and they just
seem to stand around waiting for their feathers to finish dropping
out. A student from Oamaru North School asked what type of penguins
we have seen. There are eight types of penguins in the Anatarctic
region: Rockhopper, Royal, Macaronit, Chinstrap, Gentoo, King,
Emperor and Adelie. So far the only type of penguin we have seen
here this time is Adelie penguins. There was a huge breeding colony
here when we arrived. In January 1993 I saw an Emperor penguin here
all by himself. Emperor penguins are the only other type of penguin
that breed on the Antarctic continent. There is a colony of Emperor
penguins over near Dumont d'Urville I understand.
SEALS IN THE BLIZZARD
During the blizzard I have to go out to put our waste water into
the sea. I've put timber stakes along the path that I take to the
sea because the visibility is sometimes very bad. One day I could
only see about three metres. I put the stakes 24 paces apart so I
may be adding a few more. While I was out during the blizzard I
looked around for the seals. There weren't very many. But yesterday
when the sun came out all the seals were out basking in the
sunshine. Last week before the blizzard we had a calm day and the
seals were dozing on the ice that was floating around in Boat
Harbour. The tide went out and took the seals sleeping on the ice
with it. When they woke up I'll bet they were surprised. There's
lot of ice offshore now and the seals can rest on any of the ice
floes. The sea is trying to freeze over. When it does the seals
gnaw a breathing hole in the ice with their teeth. That's why they
have the bloody mouths that I mentioned in my journal of 24
February. Margie and I keep thinking that when the sea freezes it
will be a sign that winter is here. Once winter is here then it
will soon be spring! We keep telling ourselves that when we look at
the expected low temperatures for the next few months. These are
the lowest temperatures in Celsius: March -25, April -24, May -35,
June -34, July -33, August -34, September -30, October -20,
November -19, December -9. January's not listed but never mind,
we'll be leaving in January. We're using about ten litres of
kerosene a week for the heater to keep us warm. Looking at these
expected low temperatures I wonder if our consumption will stay
about the same.
THE BEST THING THAT HAPPENED THIS WEEK:
Last night we saw a fantastic sight. There was a full moon coming
up on the eastern horizon just as the sun was going down on the
western horizon. Between the two horizons and reflected on the
frozen and shinny sea the colours ranged from gray, to several
shades of blue, navy blue and then yellow. The colour was dotted
with ice bergs off shore and the entire picture can't be painted
with words. It was impossible to photograph because the panorama
was so big. It lasted for half and hour. It was a sight we'll never
forget. If it were a painting by a really good artist Margie thinks
it would have been worth about $10 million dollars.
TALKING TO STUDENTS IN NEW ZEALAND
Our COMSAT phone is fantastic. It is our link with the outside
world. We spoke with students in New Zealand this week. They had
some interesting questions but the time got away from us. There
were a few that we thought you might like to hear. About fishing:
Students from Reporoa Primary School wanted to know what kinds of
fish we will catch and eat while we are here. I really like fishing
so I've been doing some reading about fishing in Antarctica. Before
we left Australia, I applied for and received a fishing permit from
the Australian Antarctic Division of the Department of the
Environment, Sport and Territories. I had to do this because of the
Antarctic Marine Living Resources Conservation Act, 1981. I am now
allow "to catch fish for recreational purposes -with respect to all
species of fish." According to the books I've read there are four
types of fish that I am likely to catch. They are Antarctic Cod,
Crocodile fish, Icefish and Plunder fish. All these fish belong to
one family, Nototheniidae. Their adaptation to the cold water here
as given them some very interesting characteristics. Icefish,
sometimes called white crocodile fish belong to the species
Chaenichthyidae. They lack haemoglobin, the red blood pigment,
which makes them almost colourless--so they got the nickname
Icefish. The Antarctic Cod doesn't look very much like a cod fish
from the pictures in books. They look more like Blennies. They are
supposed to be delicious once skinned and filleted. They take bait
from lines in shallow water. It is a curious thing that these fish
don't freeze. Scientists have discovered that they have a sort of
"anti-freeze" in their blood that is made of a
protein-carbohydrate. The books say one other interesting thing
about them. They are supposed to lie still after they are caught.
No flipping around like regular fish for these guys. The books say
it is because they dilate their spiny gill covers! I let you know
if I find all these facts to be true when I catch some! About
problems: Students from Rangi Ruru Girls' School wanted to know
what we would do if we were separated from "Gadget Hut" in bad
weather. That would be a life threatening situation and our plan is
to avoid such situations. That's why I put the timber stakes out
along the path I take to the sea. As I mentioned in my earlier
journal (29 Jan. "The Crew Goes Exploring") I' m a bit of a safety
freak. I don't believe in taking unnecessary risks. Margie and I
plan to go camping in the spring and that will be a well planned
and well equipped trip. I'll share all the details with you when I
prepare for that little holiday. Oamaru North School asked if we
have had any major problems so far. The flexing of the hut walls
has been our major problem. Right now I'm getting ready to
strengthen the roof. It has been flexing when the winds get over 70
knots. I've decided to put another support in the roof to stop the
movement. It might not be necessary but I'd rather be safe than
sorry. (I mentioned what I did to stop the walls flexing in the
journal of 29 January under "Our First Blizzard, 1 Feb.") Several
schools asked about our "mental attitude," for example how we felt
when the crew left, have we prepared in our mind for the isolation,
do we get on each others nerves, etc. I can tell you this so far.
Margie and I are an exceptionally close couple. We worked together
all day at McIntyre Marine Services in Sydney, we went home
together, cooked dinner together, all that is different here is the
weather and the scenery. The fantastic COMSAT phone is keeping us
in touch with other people. All this might change over the next few
months. I'll keep you informed. Maybe you'll notice changes in what
I write about in my journal. It will be interesting over the next
few months to see what happens. We've had poor radio reception this
week. It's just a feature of Antarctica. Sir Douglas Mawson had the
same problem more than 80 years ago. We have been getting some news
from the outside world from Radio Australia and Radio America. One
news story has made us worried. Harry Mitchell is sailing in the
BOC Challenge, a single-handed around the world yacht race. I
sailed in that race in 1990-91 and we know Harry. We learned on the
radio that Harry's emergency locater beacon went off and they
haven't heard from him. Fishing boats and a ship are looking for
him in the Southern Ocean near Cape Horn. We are hoping that they
find him soon or that he gets his radio working and let's the race
organisers know that he is safe. We are missing a few things
lately. Margie misses the beach and I miss my flying magazines. We
are becoming amateur rock hounds to make up for these losses.
Yesterday during our walk we found gold! It's probably not real
gold but it looks good. There's mica , quartz, copper and lots of
other interesting stuff. Still no meteorites or fossils but we are
looking. Talk to you next week.
Keep warm,
Don
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